How good is this? Very very good.
Dry as a bone Pinot Gris from the legendary Margrain. WInemaker Strat Cunning is a master at producing wines that walk their own line and this gris is no exception. With zero sugar, extended time on lees and a few years in the bottle prior to release, this is textural and structured wine that pairs perfectly with food. It's not for the faint hearted but boy is it good.
The winery writes "Once in the mouth, the wine is immediately on the offensive as big guns blaze from the top of its unassailable structural cliffs. It tingles with an obvious crusty dryness and although the acidity is only mingling about, the texture itself is teeth-rattling. It has a distinctly linear feel which corrals the flavours to the centre of the tongue, only to have them slide out from underneath to show feijoa, celeriac, manuka honey with white chocolate and gooseberry gelato. While crisp and commanding in the finish, a long lingering look back will reveal myriad gustatory sensations dancing about way after the applause has died down."